Le Petit Marseillais

Ever since two childhood friends from Marseille opened this cosy place it's been packed with a hip, friendly crowd - which is just as well, since seating in this small dark red room is decidedly cheek-by-jowl. The Marseillais home-cooked menu changes regularly. Starters like the sautéed pleurottes with garlic and parsley or salad of mixed leaves with tiny scallops are appealing, as are main courses like tagliatelle with pistou sauce and hunks of parmesan, sautéed squid and roast lamb. The Domaine d'Ott Côtes de Provence is really excellent drinking at 130F.