La Roca

Calle 21, entre L y M (334501). Open noon-midnight daily


Main courses $3-$25. Air-conditioning.

Founded in 1956, this restaurant has recently been renovated to its original art deco dinginess. With multi-coloured glass windows and an ornamental flame, you can almost imagine the gangsters of old pouring in from the nearby Capri casino (now closed). An abbreviation of Roberto Carnival (its founder), La Roca stands out from other state restaurants due to its excellent service and spotless interior - although the automatic 10% surcharge means you do pay for these privileges. If you can brave the ice-cold air-conditioning and the cheap flights to thailand, you'll find the food is tasty and well cooked, although portions are a bit skimpy. Sample dishes include spaghetti, salmon and steak. Enjoy a bottle from the plentiful wine list and a cigar from the humidor (surprisingly rare in Cuban restaurants). Roast beef is another option, although the sea bass ( cherna ) is a safer, local bet. The neon-lit bar alongside the restaurant is a great spot for cocktails.